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Take a road trip along the wild and beautiful Atlantic west coast of France and follow the waves as you discover a paradise of nature with never-ending beaches, forests, and lakes along with a rich heritage and culture. This ultimate road trip itinerary will make your road trip a breeze, including the best spots along the way, places to camp and the best foodie spots you shouldn’t miss! Nouvelle-Aquitaine is an eco-conscious destination with many eco-friendly activities to do which you can read about here.
Where is Nouvelle-Aquitaine?
Nouvelle-Aquitaine is in the southwest of France bordered by the Atlantic coast and is the largest region in France by area, slightly larger than the size of Austria. The region sits between the Pyrenees mountains in the south, Pays de la Loire in the north and Occitanie to the east. The capital of the region is Bordeaux, known for its world-famous wines and the region is also home to coastal resorts Royan, Biarritz and Arcachon.
What is Nouvelle-Aquitaine known for?
Nouvelle-Aquitaine is the perfect destination for the adventure enthusiast, nature lover and cultural soul. It covers a diverse landscape with over 720km of coastline, bordered by fragile sand dune habitats and fragrant pine forests. The region has beautiful islands, mountain vistas, cliffs and estuary wetlands. The locals adopt a relaxed lifestyle in sync with nature and a warm climate that provides plenty of vitamin D. If you’re searching for a destination where nature is dominant, respected and protected then this is the place for you.
How to get to Nouvelle-Aquitaine?
There are many routes from the UK, we took the Eurotunnel from Folkestone to Calais as this was the best option for us travelling with our two cats and only takes 35 minutes. There are alternative routes by ferry, the shortest route is from Dover to Calais and takes around 90 minutes. There are other routes which include Dover to Dunkirk, Poole to Cherbourg, Portsmouth to Caen and Portsmouth to St Malo.
If you would prefer to fly and hire a car in Nouvelle-Aquitaine, you can fly to either La Rochelle or Bordeaux airports. You can also travel by train using the Eurostar from St Pancras International station in London where you’ll first travel to Paris Gare du Nord and change to a connecting train to Gare Montparnasse with your final destination Bordeaux.
We drove from Calais to La Rochelle which took us around 7 hours, not including breaks for us and the cats. This route takes you through Rouen which is a low emission zone where a Crit’Air sticker is required which is discussed in more detail in the What to know when driving in France section below. There is an alternative no toll route which takes 9 hours.
Tips on how to make the most of your trip
Bring your bike
There are few things better than cruising along the coast on your bike with the wind through your hair and the ocean waves crashing beside you. There are thousands of bike trails across the region, and travelling by bike is accessible and easy! You will find that some places that are difficult to park for higher vehicles such as camper vans and it will be much easier with a bike so you can park and ride.
Travel slow within the region
Since travel has opened up again, we all want to make the most of our time and it can be tempting to squeeze everything in a short time. A road trip allows you to see lots within a region but remember you won’t be able to see everything in one trip! Make a list of your must-see places and then travel between these places as you might even discover a hidden gem. In Nouvelle-Aquitaine you will be spoilt for choice as there are a variety of landscapes, beaches, sand dunes, estuaries and forests.
Be responsible and eco-conscious
Experiencing nature sparks an appreciation for the environment and a desire to look after it. When we visit a destination, we all have the responsibility to preserve nature and there are many ways we can do this. Becoming a responsible traveller is a journey, a learning process all with the goal to leave the place better than we found it. One of my favourite things to do is bring my reusable hydro flask bottle that I can refill at a tap as this reduces the use of single-use plastics when buying bottled water. We’d love to know what your favourite tip for responsible travel is in the comments. Recycling facilities are easy to locate at most supermarkets and in towns. Nouvelle-Aquitaine is an eco-conscious destination with many eco-friendly activities to do which you can read about here.
What to know when driving in France?
If you are bringing your own vehicle from the UK you must display a UK sticker which has replaced the GB one. You must carry a hi-visibility jacket within the front of the vehicle, a warning triangle, spare bulbs and installed headlight beam adjusters. All drivers must carry their passport and V5 form. Also, don’t forget to drive on the right and drive the roundabouts anti-clockwise!
Recently, France introduced low emission zones which require you to display a Crit’Air sticker to show the emissions of your vehicle otherwise you will receive a fine. The low emission zones are located in cities and towns such as Paris. You must allow at least 6 weeks to order a sticker before your trip and you order one here.
Day 1 - Travel to La Rochelle
This road trip route starts from La Rochelle in the north of the region but can be followed in reverse as it is a linear route. The drive from Calais to La Rochelle takes around 7 hours, not including breaks and includes tolls which cost €88.30 (£74) in total for us in our van. This route takes you through Rouen, a low emission zone that requires a Crit’Air sticker. There is an alternative no-toll route which takes 9 hours.
STAY | Camping Le Soleil, Avenue Michel Crépeau, 17000 La Rochelle, France
Camping Le Soleil is a great, convenient location for staying the night and allows you to explore the city only a 5 minute walk to the Vieux port (old port). The campsite is simple with essential facilities available including toilets and showers. The pitches are small as it’s a city campsite and when you arrive on-site you must park outside in the lay-by and check in first to obtain a code to enter.
Day 2 - LA ROCHELLE
Make your way through the Vieux port to your breakfast spot, there are a number of boulangeries if you fancy a French pastry such as a pain au chocolat but it is referred to as a chocolatine in the southwest of France. If you’re looking for a bigger breakfast pass the Vieux market of La Rochelle on your way to breakfast at Le Jardin du Marché. A set menu of different options featuring local supplies including butter from Charente, jams from Île de Ré and juice from Cezais.
Now you’re ready to explore the beautiful city of La Rochelle, walk through the Arcades on rue de l’Escale to the rue de Minage. There are so many hidden quiet spots to discover and one of our favourites was the Cloitre des Dames Blanches, a former convent now an art exhibition space where the courtyard gives a sense of peace and calm. We’d recommend eating at Spot 46, a laid-back restaurant in the Saint-Nicolas district serving delicious homemade food. After lunch, take a stroll along the street of Saint-Nicolas and browse the boutique shops, the street is also home to one of the oldest wine bars, Cave de La Guignette.
For the afternoon, hire an iconic yellow bike and follow the route south along the coast following a section of the Vélodyssée bike route, past the largest harbour in La Rochelle, Les Minimes port to Châtelaiilon Plage which takes approximately 2 hours in total and a distance of 27km. This route will take through the peaceful Parc des Pères and past the white cliffs at La Pointe du Chay. Once back in La Rochelle, make your way to Ernest le Glacier for some of the best ice cream in town, you will be spoilt for choice on how many flavours you can choose from.
The perfect end to your day will be eating at Café du Nord which overlooks the boats and you’ll be covered in the glow of the sunset. Serving traditional French cuisine including steak tartare, seafood and salads. Alternatively, take a sunset cruise on the Columbus sailboat across the ocean. Bring your own delicious picnic and drinks onboard and enjoy where the journey takes you.
STAY | Camping Le Soleil, Avenue Michel Crépeau, 17000 La Rochelle, France
Day 3 Châtelaillon-Plage and Gironde Estuary
Located only a 20 minute drive from La Rochelle is Châtelaillon-Plage. This is a seaside resort perfect for a slow morning stroll along the beach breathing in the fresh sea air. Observe the beautiful Belle-Époque architecture, flowers and eat lunch at Marla, one of our favourite food places along this route. They serve local cuisine that respects the environment and favour organic suppliers. They even produce their own vinegar on site and the owners Maxime (Chef) and Carla exude enthusiasm and are determined to give you a delicious and local experience. At the southern end of Châtelaillon-Plage, you’ll find Centre Nautique, where you can try a variety of water sports including paddle boarding, kite surfing and catamarans.
Our next stop is the biggest estuary in Europe, the Gironde Estuary. This is where the Dordogne and Garonne rivers meet the Atlantic Ocean. Visit the protected Estuary Park which features natural art and a 360 panoramic view of the estuary from a viewing platform. Take a drive along the Gironde Estuary where you’ll find colourful fishing huts, vineyards and lighthouses. Follow the estuary south to Talmont-sur-Gironde which has been labelled one of the most beautiful villages in France. Make sure to stop at Auberge des Monards for dinner which serves seafood in a lovely quaint setting.
STAY | Camping Le Bellevue, 220 Rte Verte, 17120 Barzan, France
Facilities include showers, toilets, electricity and even a swimming pool. The site is near old Roman ruins and has breathtaking views across vineyards.
Day 4 Royan and Médoc Atlantique
Explore the streets of Royan which were rebuilt after bombing raids in 1945. The incredible Royan market is found under a very maritime themed umbrella-shaped building. The market features local produce including fruits, cheese, drinks and so much more. Le Grenier à Pain is a great place to get some fresh baguettes and a tasty almond croissant.
Now it’s time to cross the Gironde Estuary to Médoc Atlantique via the BAC. This is a ferry that departs from Royan to Verdon-sur-Mer leaving every 50 minutes every day of the week. There is no advance booking system, you turn up and purchase a ticket. The journey takes approximately 30 minutes, where during the high season (1st April to 30 September) it cost €46 for a campervan, €4 euros by foot and no extra cost to travel by bike.
Once you arrive in the Médoc Atlantique, you will notice the change in landscape to fragrant pine forest, dunes and marshland. A great way to explore and discover the estuary landscape is by horseback with Haras de Saint-Vivien, only a 20 minute drive from the BAC. We took the route through the port of Saint-Vivien where we passed old fishing cabins and a popular spot for kayaking and jet skiing. We then rode through the marshlands and learnt that the land used to be completely underwater and is surrounded by tamarisk trees.
For dinner, eat at the La Part des Anges restaurant with beautiful sea views over Vendays-Montalivet, only a 20 minute drive from Harris de Saint-Vivien. The food here is fresh and delicious and would recommend the falafel and roasted aubergine. Take a walk along Vendays-Montalivet beach to observe the colourful lifeguard huts and surfers giving the place a real ‘California’ feel.
STAY | Le Gurp campsite, 51 Rte de l'Océan, 33590 Grayan-et-l'Hôpital, France
A short 10 minute drive from the La Part des Anges restaurant, stay at the impressive Le Gurp campsite with over 900 pitches and nestled within pine trees. There are toilets and showers and it’s a great location to the beach for sunset. Make sure to carry your camping cards with you when you leave and enter the campsite as security is strict.
Day 5 - Médoc Atlantique
A great way to explore the Gironde is to cycle through the fragrant pine forests, there are endless cycle paths that take you from the coast inland. We rented electric fat bikes from Bicy’cool l’Atelier in Lacanau and took the route into the forest starting at Parking Nord past the cemetery. You will find yourself immersed in the pines with the surround sound of nature. Riding along the sandy paths was an adrenaline rush, and our final destination was the l’étang de Cousseau nature reserve. You have to leave your bikes outside the reserves and explore on foot.
Once you’ve worked up an appetite, head over to La Cantine du Coin restaurant for lunch, a short walk from the bike rental where they serve pizza and a meal of the day. Discover the streets of Lacanau with surf shops, boutique clothing and jewellery shops or take it easy on the beach for the afternoon. Lac de Lacanau is a wonderful place for keeping cool and paddle boarding. For dinner eat at Le Boucantier restaurant with an appetising menu and beautiful views of the lake!
Stay | L’Ermitage campsite, 3 Chem. de l'Hermitage, 33680 Lacanau, France
Nearby in Moutchic is L’Ermitage Campsite, completely surrounded by nature, the pitches are a generous size and there are basic toilet and shower facilities.
Day 6 - Médoc Plein Sud
Start the day with breakfast at Café Mimosa in Le Porge, a lovely place that serves pancakes, smoothies and burritos! This café is beautifully decorated and has a warm atmosphere. Now you are fuelled for an epic surf lesson with So Nice Surf School on the Le Porge Océan. This had to be one of the highlights of our trip and is great place for beginners to learn surfing. There is a free car park on either side of the roundabout as you approach Le Porge, if you have a vehicle over 1.9m there is parking to the left. So Nice Surf School is located in the car park to the right of the roundabout and is a 5 minute walk. If you have a car you can park much closer to the surf school. Make sure you stop at L’Ajoncière restaurant for lunch, they serve delicious tacos, pitaya bowls and burgers.
Discover the local area by bike or foot, there are many hikes you can do within the pine forests, L’Homme et la Nature in Le Porge is a serene spot which takes around 2 hours to complete. End the day on Le Porge Océan with pizza from La Pizzeria des Bois whilst watching the sunset - the perfect combination!
Stay // Les Prés du Pas du Mas campsite, 50 Rte des Lacs, 33680 Le Porge, France
Under a 20 minute drive from the beach, Les Prés du Pas du Mas campsite is in a beautiful natural setting, surrounded by pine trees and has toilets, showers. Hot water can be purchased at an extra cost or see it as a chance to channel your inner Wim Hof.
Day 7 - Médoc Plein Sud
The Médoc is known for growing world-famous wines and growers are faced with the challenge of higher temperatures as a result of climate change which threatens the production of grapes grown for wine and makes the grapes ripen much faster. Jean-Baptiste Cordonnier shared with us his passion for ecology and agroforestry at Château Anthonic, his organic winery of somewhat 30 hectares located between Margaux and Saint Julian in Moulis-en-Médoc, an hour drive north from Bordeaux. Agroforestry is key to their approach of adapting to climate change where planting trees between rows of vines into their system helps to increase moisture in the soil and air and protect the vines from extreme weather events.
Have lunch at the wonderful La Boule d’Or, a traditional French restaurant in Moulis-en-Médoc, serving quality food. From here make your way to Lamarque stopping at the fishing huts on stilts also known as Carrelets. There is an Aire in Lamarque where you can stay the night before catching the ferry back over the Gironde Estuary to Blaye where you can make your way back home. The drive from Blaye to Calais will take approximately 8 hours including tolls.
